February 19, 2012

The Land of Endless Entertainment

India is the land of endless entertainment.  At every corner there is a multitude of beautiful faces and amazing characters.  Let's start from the beginning...

Calcutta.

We arrived after a 4 hour plane ride from Bangkok to Calcutta, India.  It was the most intense city I've ever seen.  Thais have never seemed so docile until now.  My favorite quote from Drew upon arrival: "Now I totally understand why Buddhism started, he left his palace and saw this place and needed to chill out and sit under a tree".  Indians are intense.  The meaning of politeness and shame have no concept here.  When you walk down the street, horns are constantly blaring, people are running up to you to sell things, and the faces.. There has not been a minute in India where you go where you are not stared at.  Upon commencement of a simple question, you are immediately surrounded by 10 curious Indian men.  It takes awhile to get used to and at first it seemed petrifying to be alone.  Yet the constant curiosity and assertiveness is definitely what the aloof   Pacific Northwest needs.  The day we spent in Calcutta was the most emotionally and physically draining day of my life.

We first went to the Kali Ghat.  It is the temple in Calcutta dedicated to the goddess of death and destruction, Kali.  It is the place where her toe was believed to fall after Shiva spread her body across India.  Upon arrival, I thought we would be enterring a beautiful temple just like all of the Buddhist monasteries of Thailand.  To say the least, it was the embodiment of Kali.  Sean describes it as the place where Jesus was tortured--metal bars, white walls, flourescent lighting, people yelling and screaming.  It was as if we were in a mosh pit.  We were shoved through this metal gate where people were yelling and screaming at us for money.  When we finally got to the toe, the priest was angry that all I could offer was a Thai baht, pressed my forehead with tumeric really hard (giving me whiplash) and shoved me through the line.  After that traumatic experience we stood around an area where a puga was being performed.  Almost 8 goats were ceremoniously behead with a giant sycle.  Whiskey was shoved into their mouths before the beheading.  Those were traumatic moments.  Imagine in an instant being smashed up against firey humans, heat blazing from the sun, a drum banging next to your ear, people screaming and yelling, your crotch getting groped by random hands, and a goat beheaded before your eyes.  That was the most intense moment of my life.  This experience has left me with a completely different feeling of Hinduism that I never anticipated before.  Hinduism is the most raw religion I've ever participated in.  There is no romanticism of majesty, only stories of creation and art.

After that we went to Mother Theresa's tomb and one of her hospices in one of the slums.  Walking through it was a depressing dose of death.  I've never seem so many hopeless women.  One women Anjali who was near death held my hand and kissed it for so long.  I broke out into tears.  No one should ever be zooified like so on their moment of death.

I boycotted activities for the rest of the day.  We went to Queen Victoria's palace.  All I could do was sit on the lawn and contemplate.  It was a disgustingly beautfiul place.  There should never be such a beautiful palace in a place where slums grow virally and people sleeping on the streets.  Calcutta is a wasteland of poverty.

Indian Train.

That night we boarded an night train to Varanasi.  It was the largest and most crowded train station I've ever been inside of.  Millions of people use it every day and the smell really says it all.  The trains don't have grey water tanks.  Whatever waste humans produce just go right onto the tracks.  We were warned that the train was going to be the most dangerous part of our journey however I was only welcomed by warm hearts and smiles.  One brahmin I sat next to named Roni was an extremely interesting human being.  Coming from an educational background, he is the few of India.  He could only read and write in English but can speak English, Hindi, and Bengali.  We shared music, photography ideas, and minds.  It seems as though Indians are never too quick to ease their curiosity.  Why can't Americans let go of their aloofness and have more interest in the ones around them too?  I was awoken that night by bathroom necessities, cold air, and chants "Chai, chai, chai" by men who board the trains to sell chai tea.  If there is a possibility of overdosing on chai tea, it might happen in India.

Varanasi.

Varanasi is the most interesting city I've ever been in.  Along with the bustling busy-ness of Calcutta, there are cows walking through the streets and alleyways, ghats along the mighty Ganga River, and even more interesting people to interact with.  Despite the warning of our group leaders, I went off in solitude (extremely sick of constantly being with the same people) and explored the ghats along the river.  The most powerful one was the Marnikarnika Ghat where Indians from all around make a pilgrimage to for cremation.  There are bodies burning constantly on different tiers and levels for the differing caste of the person.  The Ganga is a beautiful river, however extremely polluted.  Safety levels of fecal chloroform per liter is 500 or under--the Ganga has 1.5 million in some parts.  Confusingly, there are people bathing in it at all times for ritual purification.  It is believed to cleanse one of their sins.  Everyone you speak to in Varanasi has a different creation story.  I will elaborate in my next blog because my time is up.

It is getting dark.  It is dangerous for women to walk around alone at night. Until next time, J.

February 4, 2012

NGOs, NGOs, NGOs

I've spent the last couple of days searching for NGOs in the border town of MaeSot.  It is the most diverse town I've ever visited.  Because it is right next to Burma, the town consists of a variety of its ethnic groups, the Karen, Shan, Chin, Rhohingas, and a scoopful of the 136 ethnic tribes in Burma.  Because of this diversity, every city block has a temple dedicated to each of the major religions.  In one corner, you can find a golden Thai Theravada Buddhist temple and on the other you can find a mosque.  There is also a Chinese temple dedicated to Confucianism and a Burmese Buddhist temple.  Surprisingly I have not seen a Christian church seeing that over 50% of Karen are Christian.  Leaving Noh Bo has proven difficult to adjust back to Thai society.  Just as I was acquainting myself quite well with Karen, the tonal language of Thai has left me discombobulated and confused.

The Green Guesthouse where we are staying is located right next door to the police detention center for the undocumented migrant workers.  If these migrant workers are caught in the streets of Thailand without papers, they are sent to this detention center where they can either bribe the policeman for bail or be sent back to Burma.  The cells are empty in the mornings and by the evenings the cell is full of families: children, mothers, fathers, brothers, and sisters.  This is the flaw in the Thai bureaucracy which parallels the treatment of our own migrant workers in the United States.  Because of the prevalence of the mistreatment of migrant workers and refugees, there are many NGOs in the area that work to help the community.

Erika and I have spent the last couple of days working to find and interview some people who work at Compasio and the famous Mae Tao Clinic.  To our surprise, a graciously elderly British man volunteering at Compasio (an NGO dedicated to saving undocumented migrant children from homelessness, abuse, and trafficking) treated us to a Burmese dinner while answering any questions we had.  It seems as though NGOs here are much more accepting of help and questions than in the States.  You don't need to have too much experience, just the will and desire to help.  The Mae Tao Clinic is an amazing place.  Just over 20 years ago, Dr. Cynthia, a Burmese, opened up a clinic to help the suffering refugees who were refused help from Thai government.  It is a conclave of small concrete buildings just outside of town.  You would never believe how many people are being treated there.  It is an extremely popular place seeing that these people have nowhere else to go.

Salinee who is the CEO and founder of the NGO we worked with setting up the solar panels in Noh Bo has given me some contacts in which I can maybe enter Mae La, the largest refugee camp in Thailand housing 41,000 people.  It is an incredible place.  You can see thatched roofs as far as the eye can see when driving past it.  No one is allowed to leave or enter.  Offenders will be sent back to Burma.  Food is rationed out because there is no agriculture in the camp:  there is simply no space.  Wouldn't it be an eye-opening experience to live as a Karen in Mae La for a day?

I worry for Salinee, Jobson, M, and Tutu (employees of the solar panel NGO we worked with in Noh Bo).  They left yesterday to illegally cross the river into Burma in order to install more solar panels in the remote Burmese mountains.  It is such an fascinating thing in history to partake in and yet they are incredibly nonchalant about it all. 

The small town of MaeSot has proven to be full of hidden gems and treasures of knowledge.  If you come here as a tourist, you won't be impressed.  But if you come here as a seeker of knowledge, you will be captivated.

J.

February 2, 2012

The Forgotton Children of Noh Bo

I have fallen in love with the forgotten children of Noh Bo.  We spent all last week living in the Karen village of Noh Bo contingent to the border of Burma.  The Karen are hill tribe people that spread across the border.  All are refugees of this conflict.  But the Karen are so incredibly resilient.  We spent the last week installing solar panels and a well pump into a remote village.  340 meters of digging is grueling in 100 degree heat.  The strong Karen men made us seem insignificant and small but their warm hearts and smiles suggest a friendship that goes beyond language barriers.  The week was spent waking up at 7:30am, then breakfast, then work, then lunch, then more work until around 4pm, then playtime.

The children of Ole's Blessed Home Orphanage are the most independent and disciplined children I've ever met.  At times the boys got violent with rocks and punches but it was always solved with some tender-loving care.  The young girls would always run up to you with beautiful smiles yearning for the intimate loving relationship they've lost.  The older girls are more reserved but they warm up to you instantly when the connection of pure curiosity is understood.  I've made some friends.... Ganay, Weehey, Palerwah, and Yada. Each of them has welcomed me into their world so acceptingly: going to Karen church, riding motorbikes and chewing betelnut, swimming in the river, playing Thacraw and volleyball.... They will always be forever held in my heart.  What incredibly beautiful souls.  Each of their stories are as heartbreaking as the other and yet they've successfully formed a small community within their common tragedy:  the loss of family to war.  At times I felt intense bliss and other times I've been overwhelmed with intense guilt of leaving.  I must go back.

We are now in Mae Sot, a border town.  It is intense, smelly, and buzzing with people of all ethnic patterns.  I have spent the past couple of days exploring and finding some Non-Governmental Organizations to interview.  I've decided to change my research question in regards to the Karen refugee situation in Thailand.  The migrant worker situation here parallels the migrant worker situation in the United States regarding Mexican workers.  I've also discovered a migrant worker art cooperative in town in which Blair and I would love to fund raise for upon arrival home.  The connections I have created have opened up many oppurtunities of future travel and employment.  I must come back.

 Nabayo and Friend

Devotion Time

Going to Karen Church in Style 

Salini stoked on the finish of the Solar Panel Project 




 Last meal at the orphanage.  Karen Independence Day BBQ.

 I miss you WeeHay

 Yada and Jobson

The boys are finally loving on our last night :D
J.

January 23, 2012

Land of the Thais

Thailand, also known as land of the enduring heat, amazing tea, welcoming inhabitants, and squatting toilets.  The world really is much larger and stranger than I have been led to believe.  I apologize for the slow updates.  Internet is hard to come across in our journeys in the SouthEast Asian jungles.

After an unending plane ride with free wine, food, and touch-screen cable, we arrived in Bangkok at the Shanti Lodge (the cutest, most quaint hostel around).  The intense heat and humidity causes the group to be in a paralytic state of shock.  The smells of the market and street vendors fill the air with an insatiable appetite for curiosity and therefore even in the blazing heat, we venture throughout the beautiful bustling city.  The exotic mangosteens, jackfruits, and fresh pineapples are so deliciously intoxicating.  There is so much to do.  We spent the first two days exploring, going on boat taxis, and visiting temples.  This independent research project is really looking more like a vacation.  The last night of the trip, we spent drumming with some locals and hanging out with othe wandering travelers.  That's when I met her:  Keisha from my hometown.  A teacher recruit stationed in Vietnam, the rest of our night fills with the aroma of cigarettes, lagers, and philosophical discussions of Derrida, Foucault, and other amazing theorists of our time.  That place was difficult to leave.

The next day, Charlie and the staff told us that we had to find a remote village where the Shanti Farm was up north past  Kanchanaburi.  This village wasn't even on the map which made it a bit more difficult than imagined.  We quickly broke up into groups of 5 with a leader (ours was Claire).  I immediately hailed a cab for 150 Baht (that's aprx $2.50) to the bus station 40 minutes away.  It was one of the greatest car rides of my life with five people in the back and two giant packs.  I curled up into the feet area behind the passenger seat.  When we got to the bus station, we bought a ticket for the bus.  However, as we were leaving, the bus driver and stewardess of the bus started yelling at us in Thai.  I have never felt so incredibly idiotic in my entire life.  Here we are, in a country and we can barely speak the language of the people.  Everyone on the bus kept thinking these stupid faarlongs can't understand shit.  AFter kicking us out of the bus, we realized that the ticket we had was for teh minivan.  After a 3 hour minivan ride to Kanchanaburi, Morgan realized he forgot his moneybelt with passport and everything on the bus.  This created a long delay in the only air-conditioned place in Kanchanburi, a restaurant.  After much patience, we hopped onto a Songtao (a truck with seats in the truckbed) to a two-hour drive to a remote village, Phrat Tat.  It emanated the Sinclair Island of my past complete with bungalows, hammocks, and mosquito nets.

We ended up spending the past 3 days there going to the Erawan National Park waterfalls, Phrat Tat caves, hanging out, drinking, and talking to teh locals.  One of the most enlightening moments was when we ventured to the village temple and spoke to a monk who answered much sought after questions with blessings afterwards.  Living in bungalows really makes you understand the significance of running toilets and water.  I have forever taken that for granted and surely will not upon return.

Yesterday was a sad day.  Leaving was incredibly heart-breaking.  WanPen, Mr Hey, and Bang will forever be in my memories as the most hospitable family.  Yesterday was spent transfering from truckbeds to hot city bus to hot city bus to minivan.  We were pulled over when we were in the back of the truckbeds becuse the locals were confused as to why there were so many faarlongs on trucks rather than nice cars. LOL. Anyways, the trip to MaeSot was an enduring transfer of vehicles, amazing connections, and a beautiful sunset.  We didn't arrive at our final destination until midnight last night and I knocked out immediately.  This place has running toilets and a shower.  The Green HOstel in MaeSot is the name of our new home.  This is a beautiful border town with much more diversity in the people than our prior residences. 

Mallorie.

Erawan National Park Waterfalls

Bang.

It is time to explore.
J.

January 15, 2012

Long Awaited Departure

Hello world.

Alas, the long-awaited departure of my trip to Thailand and India has arrived.  I will be leaving Tuesday morning for a 20-hour flight that will travel across the world.  This blog shall be the gateway into my world.  Apologies for the absence of posts.

J.